Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
Biology
BiologyBotanyMicrobiologyEntomologyEvolutionPaleontology
Chemistry
General ChemistryAnalytical ChemistryElectrochemistryOrganic Synthesis
Earth Science
GeologyMineralogyOceanographyMeteorologyEarthquakes
Physics
General PhysicsResearchRelativityParticle PhysicsElectromagnetismFusionOpticsAcousticsNew Theories

Natural Science Forum / Physics / Acoustics / August 2007



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Apartment Acoustics - Basic Question

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
davidpryce123@yahoo.com.au - 19 Aug 2007 09:27 GMT
Hi Group,

I live in an apartment and the rental property next to me has changed
tenants again this lot seem more noisy than last time.  So I am
planning on getting the common wall professionally sound proofed, but
I would like to understand some basics.

The common wall is precast concrete and about 100 mm think.  I can
hear voices through the wall, the conversion, unless they are
screaming, is indecipherable.  With a juice glass against the wall I
can just here the conversation.  The other issue is the low deep beat
to their music, this pretty annoying.

What is the best way to acoustically insulate my side of this wall,
using the minimum amount of space?

In Australia I see this product barrierboad.  How does this work?

http://www.soundblock.com.au/pdf/barrierboard_installation.pdf

If the board is glued to the wall, won't the sound just transmit
through?

Why does the glass make the sound clear?

Thanks

David
angelo Campanella - 19 Aug 2007 14:32 GMT
> The common wall is precast concrete and about 100 mm think.  

    That will provide about STC 40-45.

> I can
> hear voices through the wall, the conversion, unless they are
> screaming, is indecipherable.  

    Coincdence transmission will pass 300-400 Hz (vowels), so
intelligibility will be almost nil.

> With a juice glass against the wall I
> can just here the conversation.  The other issue is the low deep beat
> to their music, this pretty annoying.

    Probably naturally amplifies about 1 kHz

> What is the best way to acoustically insulate my side of this wall,
> using the minimum amount of space?

    Add a second barrier wall spaced a some inches from the existing wall;
no contacts with the existing wall. Two layers of gypsum board on wood
or metal studs will do. Figure an air gap between the concrete and gyp
surfaces of at least 6" (150mm) for an overall room space loss of a
180mm with along that common wall. The 6" void must be filled with glass
fiber, or any fiber (NOT foam) used for thermal and sound absorption.
Caulk the entire outside perimeter of the added wall. Paint to suit.

    This will provide excelent sound reduction except in one instance; a
resonance at 34 Hz. The lowest common drum-beat frequency component in
rock music is in the 40 to 60 Hz range, sometines 30 Hz. The concrete
does fairly well at reducing that, so overall, you may be satisfied.

> In Australia I see this product barrierboad.  How does this work?

    It is generally but a fancy name for drywall. In this case, this is an
Australian version of "Quietrock" which avoids the 2,000 Hz coincidence
transmission in drywall. But concrete does this well anyway, so it is
not called for in your case. The drywall (aka plaster board or gypsum
board) doe sjust as well or better at less cost and effort.

> If the board is glued to the wall, won't the sound just transmit
> through?

    Correct; the air gap is VITAL.

> Why does the glass make the sound clear?

    Probably naturally provides mechanical amplification around 1,000 Hz
that promotes speech intelligibility.

    Angelo Campanella
Brian Marston - 19 Aug 2007 14:35 GMT
> Hi Group,
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> David

The barribioard is not just "glued on". As a "glue on it would add a
little more damping and a tiny increase in mass - and could either
increase or decrease you problem.

It is a second wall that is required in your situation but much depends
on the current construction of the building.

Rather than construct a second offset steel stud frame wall faced with
high density gypsum plasterboard (16mm Fyrchek or 16mm Firestop or 16mm
Fireshield or 13mm Soundchek), this is a offset steel stud framed wall
with a sheet of high density gypsum plasterboard consisting of a
laminated 13mm sheet made from laminating two 6mm gypsum plasterboard
sheets together with an interlayer - called  "barriboard". The
configuration in your situation (with an existing 100mm concrete wall)
appears to be an untested configuration.

E-mail me back and I'll head you in the right direction.
Where in Australia are you?
davidpryce123@yahoo.com.au - 19 Aug 2007 23:38 GMT
Hi Brian,

> Where in Australia are you?

Darlinghurst in Sydney.  Can you recommend someone to consult /
review?

David
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.