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Natural Science Forum / Physics / Optics / September 2005Lightwave Electronics 210 and 220 lasers
I got some Lightwave stuff recently and took some pictures that some of you may find interesting. In particular, there is a 53nm version of the 210. It's way different than the 221 in the FAQ. There is also a 220 which looks almost exactly the same as the 221 in the FAQ. http://www.junktronix.com/gallery/lwe210g-532 http://www.junktronix.com/gallery/lwe220m Kevin > I got some Lightwave stuff recently and took some pictures that some of > you may find interesting. In particular, there is a 53nm version of the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Kevin Make that a 532nm version of the 210... Also, I forgot to ask the question I had about the 210G. Is a Q-switch normally open or normally closed. I.e. do I have to drive the Q-switch in order to try and run the laser CW or can I just ignore it? Kevin > > I got some Lightwave stuff recently and took some pictures that some > > of you may find interesting. In particular, there is a 53nm version [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > the Q-switch in order to try and run the laser CW or can I just ignore > it? I'd think it doesn't need to be driven if it's an AOM. --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org. Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. Hi Kevin and Sam, > > > I got some Lightwave stuff recently and took some pictures that some > > > of you may find interesting. In particular, there is a 53nm version [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I'd think it doesn't need to be driven if it's an AOM. The 220 looks very much like ours (Simon's old one, which I believe is also the one in the FAQ). There, the AOM is extra-cavity. Figure 3 of both lasers shows the big connector. The AOM driver is integrated in the little box to the left of it. For it to run, you need to supply power to two of the smaller pins in the multi-pin connector (can't remember which ones, but could look it up). In our laser, the AOM is on when the driver is powered, and only switches off again, if there is a signal into the high-speed coax connector on the left (SMA?). If you just supply a current to the two big pins, the diodes will run and the laser will operate cw (provided you open the shutter manually or take it out). Christoph  SignatureImportant: Emails sent to me which contain my full name in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter. With most programs "Reply" should do the job. > Hi Kevin and Sam, > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > and the laser will operate cw (provided you open the shutter manually > or take it out). And provide the cooling. :) --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org. Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. > > Hi Kevin and Sam, > > [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > And provide the cooling. :) Oh yes of course. It will still operate without, but not for very long ;-) Christoph SignatureImportant: Emails sent to me which contain my full name in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter. With most programs "Reply" should do the job. >>>Hi Kevin and Sam, >>> [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Christoph I've done just that and the 220M works fine. The 210G (KTP doubled) one also has good pump diodes, but I didn't see any output or intracavity beams using my IR viewer. Everything looks OK so that's why I was wondering whether the Q-switch is normally on or off. These are on consignment so I've got them listed on eBay right now. I have another big Lightwave head labeled M631S. It looks like the Q-series heads: http://www.jdsu.com/index.cfm?productid=553&pagepath=Products/Commercial_Lasers/ Product_Categories/Solid_State_Lasers&id=2009 but is not q-switched and does not have a SHG or THG crystal. It't also working, but I'm not 100% sure I've got the beam path figured out. Pictures here http://www.junktronix.com/gallery/lwe-m632s-1064 Does my beam path drawing look reasonable? http://www.junktronix.com/gallery/lwe-m632s-1064/lwe_M631S_cavity?full=1 I'm not quite sure what the thing that seems to be the HR actually is since it's got 4 wires attached - looks like maybe a photodiode behind the mirror and maybe a thermistor? Kevin Hi Kevin, > I've done just that and the 220M works fine. The 210G (KTP doubled) one > also has good pump diodes, but I didn't see any output or intracavity > beams using my IR viewer. Everything looks OK so that's why I was > wondering whether the Q-switch is normally on or off. These are on > consignment so I've got them listed on eBay right now. If the diodes run but the resonator does not oscillate, then it could be that the AOM is on. However, without power going into the driver, this is highly unlikely. If you want to make absolutely sure, pull out the cable attached to the AOM. In the picture, it looks as if it is attached to the driver from inside the box (bottom right of large box). If the laser still doesn't operate, something with the resonator is wrong (unless the shutter is closed, I assume you took care of this). > I have another big Lightwave head labeled M631S. It looks like the > Q-series heads: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > since it's got 4 wires attached - looks like maybe a photodiode behind > the mirror and maybe a thermistor? I am offline at the moment, will try to look at the links tomorrow. Christoph SignatureImportant: Emails sent to me which contain my full name in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter. With most programs "Reply" should do the job. > Hi Kevin, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > is wrong (unless the shutter is closed, I assume you took care of > this). I had the shutter open. I didn't run the diodes over 15A because I didn't want to overheat them. The 210 starts lasing at 13A so I figure the 220 just needs higher pump power or the q-switch running before it gets going. I really should find a decent chiller. > > Hi Kevin, > > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > the 220 just needs higher pump power or the q-switch running before it > gets going. I really should find a decent chiller. It's probably a higher threshold current. The q-switch running will only make the threshold even higher, if anything. For initial tests, you should be able to use water straight from the tap. As long as it is colder than ~20 °C, you should be fine up to 20 or even 25 A. Just make sure it is not too cold, otherwise you might get condensation. Christoph SignatureImportant: Emails sent to me which contain my full name in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter. With most programs "Reply" should do the job. |
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