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Natural Science Forum / Physics / Optics / June 2008



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How to prepare micro-organisms for aesthetic purpose ?

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Setup.exe - 10 Jun 2008 22:56 GMT
Hi,

I'm new here with a microscope Bresser Biolux A - 20 X 1280.
I wanted to see micro-organism for example in rotten water as I did when I
was young, with a cheaper machine.
I took some forgotten, dirty water in a square nearby, but the only thing I
can see is some blur spheres moving, there seems to be nobody in this water
!!!!

Also with the barlow lens and 40 X it's very hard to have clear vision, to
focus anything.
I know one must start with lower focus but when I was young I had no problem
to see clearly those animals.
And I fear to see nothing with lower lens.

What should I take to have many life into ?

Thanks !!!

Julian
pennine56@yahoo.co.uk - 11 Jun 2008 15:09 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Julian

Hello Julian

As a fellow hobbyist I haven't come across the model mentioned, but a
web search seems to show it as a student compound microscope with
built in lamp, three or so objectives and variety of eyepiece options.

Bresser are a well known name of badged budget optics. Part of their
range did include the well regarded (for hobbyists) Russian Biolam
stands which I've used for thirty years. The Biolux doesn't look like
one of those but hopefully they have sourced some competent optics.

It's hard to tell at a distance where the problem may lay. Here's a
few suggestions.

If you have access to some prepared slides, like thin plant sections
or part insect mounts, try those first rather than pond life. From
lowest objective mag upwards, do the images look crisp and in focus
across most of field without any marked rainbow effects at edges of
subject. Decide especially which eyepiece is best. I suspect you'll
find a fixed mag eyepiece if supplied at 7-10x will be better than any
zoom optics supplied. You may get so-called empty magnification with
the zooms, ie magnifying the modest objectives beyond their
capabilities.

You could also try a piece of magazine paper with a colour photo on
under lowest powers in good light from above, this should show if
crisp image and fairly flat.

If the two lowest objectives perhaps a 5x and 10x, give crisp images
with a say a 10x optical eyepiece then you have 50x to 100x total mag
which will reveal a lot of pond life and detail in other microcope
subjects.

Depending on where Bresser sourced the microscope, the objectives on
the nosepiece above 10x may or may not be good enough for higher power
work or they may be limiting.

Ponds contain a wide variety of micro critters from water fleas over a
1mm to tiny bacteria and protozoa. It's best not to be too ambitious
with a budget student microscope. Start by examining the larger
organisms like waterfleas, cyclops, fly larvae and detail within. Look
for well vegetated ponds that may support a variety of life and
collect with a fine net. Or grab some weed put in a flat dish in water
and isolate critters you see by eye or hand lens. Muddy pools etc may
only support a limited amount of tinier life like bacteria and smaller
protozoa that needs more demanding optics and sample prep.

Preparation of the temporary mount needs care as well. Clean
microscope slides, cover slips and a few droppers and needles are
required. The water film should be as thin as possible ie a fraction
of a mm with cover slip on. A little vaseline at corners of slip can
create some thickness for avoiding crushing specimens. Avoid putting
thicker bit of plant under scope. If any fine algae present tease some
filaments under a slip in water, they should give flat subjects and
crisp outlines with some cell detail. You should see some larger
protozoa browsing the algae if a good pond and other critters.

If the microscope has a substage condenser with iris or stops that
needs to be setup properly for good images. The manual should describe
how to do this. A good book like Nachtigall's 'Exploring with the
microscope' is worthwhile. Check www.abe.com or www.alibris.com for
any lower priced used copies as out of print.

Note that this is a more professional orientated forum where scope
requirements are much more demanding. As long as the optics are
reasonably competent you can get a lot of fun out of these sort of
stands. I have for thirty years and only recently moved up to bigger
name kit.

You may wish to try a Yahoo forum like http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Microscope/
where many hobbyists with kit in all sorts of price ranges can advise.

Websites like www.micscape.org also have articles on getting the most
out of hobbyist type microscopes.

Hope this helps and have fun.
regards
David
Kevin Cunningham - 11 Jun 2008 22:23 GMT
On Jun 11, 10:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

> > Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 95 lines]
> regards
> David

Great post!

The one number you really need to be familiar with is Numerical
Aperture or NA.  With this number which is printed on the objective
you can calculate the smallest object you can see.

The NA of a 40X objective is adequate to see to less than a micron so
you should have no problem with resolution.  However you will have to
stop the condenser down to get any contrast.  The specimens you
discuss can be as low as 1:2, it would help if you had phase contrast
or DIC.

Thanks,

Kevin Cunningham
SMS
Setup.exe - 13 Jun 2008 05:46 GMT
> On Jun 11, 10:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 120 lines]
> Kevin Cunningham
> SMS

Hi,

Thank you very much for you generous responses !
I'll have to check first the translation for a full reading and
understanding, as I'm working far from home theses days.
Just figure out that my point (in the future) is to built an online
streaming microscope webcam with moving bacteria and protozoa !
Would be very amazing ...

Cheers, and really, THANKS again

Julien
Too_Many_Tools - 20 Jun 2008 19:42 GMT
On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

> > Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 97 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I also recommend ""Nachtigall's 'Exploring with the microscope' "...an
excellent book.

I wish he would do a series of them expanding on the original...the
need is there.

TMT
UKOncology@aol.com - 26 Jun 2008 19:43 GMT
> On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 107 lines]
>
> TMT

May I suggest checking that the optics are clean. Use a hand lens to
examine them but do not touch the optical surfaces. Do NOT clean them
unless they are dirty, and if you do clean them use a proper lens
tissue and use with great care, and the absolute minimum of wiping.
See previous postings.
Also, I suggest looking at the brown goo that forms in standing water
and slow streams. Should be full of diatoms etc.
Use a clean cover slip, and a low power - x20 -x50 is fine. You should
see plenty of organisms.
Another trick is to get some moss and soak in a few drops of water for
20 mins, then squeeze out most of the water and make a quick slide,
with a clean cover slip as above. If you squeeze the water out of the
moss into a shallow container on a black backround, you may see small
white dots moving. These are tardigrades - put on a lside as before,
and enjoy observing these remarkable animals.
Good luck, Hj
Kevin Cunningham - 28 Jun 2008 15:12 GMT
On Jun 26, 2:43 pm, UKOncol...@aol.com wrote:

> > On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 124 lines]
> and enjoy observing these remarkable animals.
> Good luck, Hj

Good post but...

Never clean dry, always clean wet.
Never clean dry, always clean wet.
Never clean dry, always clean wet.

Any high vapor pressure chemical will work on the lens but most will
kill you.  OK, a minor problem.  For safety and simplicity  use
alcohol and a water based cleaner like Windex.  Put some on a Kim-Wipe
or tissue and wipe gently from the center out.  Throw the tissue
tissue away and repeat as needed.  Then wipe to dry.  For the last
pass its OK to breath on the glass and then remove it with the tissue.

Thanks,

Kevin Cunningham
SMS
bobmarable@earthlink.net - 30 Jun 2008 12:51 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Julian

Did you just place a drop of water on the slide, and then view it?
You need a coverglass on top of the drop, to"flatten" the viewing
field, thereby keeping moving critters in the depth of focus--just a
possibility?
Kevin Cunningham - 30 Jun 2008 15:50 GMT
On Jun 30, 7:51 am, bobmara...@earthlink.net wrote:

> > Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> field, thereby keeping moving critters in the depth of focus--just a
> possibility?

You will also need a 0.17mm cover glass because this is the first lens
of the objective.  Read your objective, if a cover glass is specified
you have (underlined, accented) to use one.  And a 0.17mm.

Thanks,

Kevin Cunningham
SMS
 
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