How to prepare micro-organisms for aesthetic purpose ?
|
|
Thread rating:  |
Setup.exe - 10 Jun 2008 22:56 GMT Hi,
I'm new here with a microscope Bresser Biolux A - 20 X 1280. I wanted to see micro-organism for example in rotten water as I did when I was young, with a cheaper machine. I took some forgotten, dirty water in a square nearby, but the only thing I can see is some blur spheres moving, there seems to be nobody in this water !!!!
Also with the barlow lens and 40 X it's very hard to have clear vision, to focus anything. I know one must start with lower focus but when I was young I had no problem to see clearly those animals. And I fear to see nothing with lower lens.
What should I take to have many life into ?
Thanks !!!
Julian
pennine56@yahoo.co.uk - 11 Jun 2008 15:09 GMT > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Julian Hello Julian
As a fellow hobbyist I haven't come across the model mentioned, but a web search seems to show it as a student compound microscope with built in lamp, three or so objectives and variety of eyepiece options.
Bresser are a well known name of badged budget optics. Part of their range did include the well regarded (for hobbyists) Russian Biolam stands which I've used for thirty years. The Biolux doesn't look like one of those but hopefully they have sourced some competent optics.
It's hard to tell at a distance where the problem may lay. Here's a few suggestions.
If you have access to some prepared slides, like thin plant sections or part insect mounts, try those first rather than pond life. From lowest objective mag upwards, do the images look crisp and in focus across most of field without any marked rainbow effects at edges of subject. Decide especially which eyepiece is best. I suspect you'll find a fixed mag eyepiece if supplied at 7-10x will be better than any zoom optics supplied. You may get so-called empty magnification with the zooms, ie magnifying the modest objectives beyond their capabilities.
You could also try a piece of magazine paper with a colour photo on under lowest powers in good light from above, this should show if crisp image and fairly flat.
If the two lowest objectives perhaps a 5x and 10x, give crisp images with a say a 10x optical eyepiece then you have 50x to 100x total mag which will reveal a lot of pond life and detail in other microcope subjects.
Depending on where Bresser sourced the microscope, the objectives on the nosepiece above 10x may or may not be good enough for higher power work or they may be limiting.
Ponds contain a wide variety of micro critters from water fleas over a 1mm to tiny bacteria and protozoa. It's best not to be too ambitious with a budget student microscope. Start by examining the larger organisms like waterfleas, cyclops, fly larvae and detail within. Look for well vegetated ponds that may support a variety of life and collect with a fine net. Or grab some weed put in a flat dish in water and isolate critters you see by eye or hand lens. Muddy pools etc may only support a limited amount of tinier life like bacteria and smaller protozoa that needs more demanding optics and sample prep.
Preparation of the temporary mount needs care as well. Clean microscope slides, cover slips and a few droppers and needles are required. The water film should be as thin as possible ie a fraction of a mm with cover slip on. A little vaseline at corners of slip can create some thickness for avoiding crushing specimens. Avoid putting thicker bit of plant under scope. If any fine algae present tease some filaments under a slip in water, they should give flat subjects and crisp outlines with some cell detail. You should see some larger protozoa browsing the algae if a good pond and other critters.
If the microscope has a substage condenser with iris or stops that needs to be setup properly for good images. The manual should describe how to do this. A good book like Nachtigall's 'Exploring with the microscope' is worthwhile. Check www.abe.com or www.alibris.com for any lower priced used copies as out of print.
Note that this is a more professional orientated forum where scope requirements are much more demanding. As long as the optics are reasonably competent you can get a lot of fun out of these sort of stands. I have for thirty years and only recently moved up to bigger name kit.
You may wish to try a Yahoo forum like http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Microscope/ where many hobbyists with kit in all sorts of price ranges can advise.
Websites like www.micscape.org also have articles on getting the most out of hobbyist type microscopes.
Hope this helps and have fun. regards David
Kevin Cunningham - 11 Jun 2008 22:23 GMT On Jun 11, 10:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 95 lines] > regards > David Great post!
The one number you really need to be familiar with is Numerical Aperture or NA. With this number which is printed on the objective you can calculate the smallest object you can see.
The NA of a 40X objective is adequate to see to less than a micron so you should have no problem with resolution. However you will have to stop the condenser down to get any contrast. The specimens you discuss can be as low as 1:2, it would help if you had phase contrast or DIC.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
Setup.exe - 13 Jun 2008 05:46 GMT > On Jun 11, 10:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 120 lines] > Kevin Cunningham > SMS Hi,
Thank you very much for you generous responses ! I'll have to check first the translation for a full reading and understanding, as I'm working far from home theses days. Just figure out that my point (in the future) is to built an online streaming microscope webcam with moving bacteria and protozoa ! Would be very amazing ...
Cheers, and really, THANKS again
Julien
Too_Many_Tools - 20 Jun 2008 19:42 GMT On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 97 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I also recommend ""Nachtigall's 'Exploring with the microscope' "...an excellent book.
I wish he would do a series of them expanding on the original...the need is there.
TMT
UKOncology@aol.com - 26 Jun 2008 19:43 GMT > On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 107 lines] > > TMT May I suggest checking that the optics are clean. Use a hand lens to examine them but do not touch the optical surfaces. Do NOT clean them unless they are dirty, and if you do clean them use a proper lens tissue and use with great care, and the absolute minimum of wiping. See previous postings. Also, I suggest looking at the brown goo that forms in standing water and slow streams. Should be full of diatoms etc. Use a clean cover slip, and a low power - x20 -x50 is fine. You should see plenty of organisms. Another trick is to get some moss and soak in a few drops of water for 20 mins, then squeeze out most of the water and make a quick slide, with a clean cover slip as above. If you squeeze the water out of the moss into a shallow container on a black backround, you may see small white dots moving. These are tardigrades - put on a lside as before, and enjoy observing these remarkable animals. Good luck, Hj
Kevin Cunningham - 28 Jun 2008 15:12 GMT On Jun 26, 2:43 pm, UKOncol...@aol.com wrote:
> > On Jun 11, 9:09 am, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 124 lines] > and enjoy observing these remarkable animals. > Good luck, Hj Good post but...
Never clean dry, always clean wet. Never clean dry, always clean wet. Never clean dry, always clean wet.
Any high vapor pressure chemical will work on the lens but most will kill you. OK, a minor problem. For safety and simplicity use alcohol and a water based cleaner like Windex. Put some on a Kim-Wipe or tissue and wipe gently from the center out. Throw the tissue tissue away and repeat as needed. Then wipe to dry. For the last pass its OK to breath on the glass and then remove it with the tissue.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
bobmarable@earthlink.net - 30 Jun 2008 12:51 GMT > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Julian Did you just place a drop of water on the slide, and then view it? You need a coverglass on top of the drop, to"flatten" the viewing field, thereby keeping moving critters in the depth of focus--just a possibility?
Kevin Cunningham - 30 Jun 2008 15:50 GMT On Jun 30, 7:51 am, bobmara...@earthlink.net wrote:
> > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > field, thereby keeping moving critters in the depth of focus--just a > possibility? You will also need a 0.17mm cover glass because this is the first lens of the objective. Read your objective, if a cover glass is specified you have (underlined, accented) to use one. And a 0.17mm.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
|
|
|