Caring for microscopes
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Ted - 27 Jun 2008 17:26 GMT http://snipr.com/CaringMicroscopes
Kevin Cunningham - 28 Jun 2008 15:04 GMT > http://snipr.com/CaringMicroscopes Don't believe the section on cleaning, the gentleman just doesnt' know what he's talking about. Nice try, no cigar.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
pennine56@yahoo.co.uk - 28 Jun 2008 18:20 GMT > >http://snipr.com/CaringMicroscopes > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Kevin Cunningham > SMS Seems very sound to me as a humble hobbyist within the context of an introductory guide, please enlighten us! Thanks. David
jmchone@nb.sympatico.ca - 29 Jun 2008 14:20 GMT Mr. Cunningham, for the past 35 years I have been a research geologist and faculty member; a major microscope user but not professionally trained in servicing scopes. So I would appreciate your guidance on why my cleaning advice is worthless and what should be done instead. That would no doubt improve my own lab instrument maintenance as well as my eBay guide, and perhaps be helpful to the google group as well. Thanks from James G. McHone
On Jun 28, 2:20 pm, pennin...@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> > >http://snipr.com/CaringMicroscopes > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks. > David Kevin Cunningham - 29 Jun 2008 18:10 GMT On Jun 29, 9:20 am, jmch...@nb.sympatico.ca wrote:
> Mr. Cunningham, for the past 35 years I have been a research geologist > and faculty member; a major microscope user but not professionally [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Thanks. > > David Sir;
Your cleaning advice is close to dangerous. The critical one is:
Always clean wet, not dry. (repeat endlessly)
If is crucial to clean wet. Your trying to float the dirt up and either into the cleaning tissue, not trying to rub it in deeper. Remember if you clean dry you will scratch either the glass or the coating material. By the way, coating material is mostly harder than glass so you want as much coated glass as possible. For a cleaning solution use any high vapor pressure chemical, however most high vapor pressure chemicals are rather deadly so I recommend alcohol, heptane and water based cleaner like Windex or Sparkle. Heptane is safe but hard to get so mostly alcohol will have to do. Make sure your work area is well ventilated.
It is not crucial to capture the dirt in the cleaning tissue, if you can push it to the edge that's good enough, usually. You want the glass area used by the instrument to be scrupulously clean though.
The cleaning material can be Kim-Wipes of a simple Tissue like Kleenex. Don't purchase tissues that have lotions on them that protect your nose, they just won't work. I use Kim-Wipes since they are readily available but when push comes to shove I've used Kleenex and Publix brand tissues. You may have to clean the surface off with either canned air or an ear syringe (!) but both work well to get rid of dust. Tissues just add a bit more dust to the equation.
Dip the tissue into the water based cleaner then into some alcohol, I use Menda bottles but they're expensive. Start from the center and wipe to the edges. Throw the tissue away. Repeat until clean. Wipe in the same pattern with a dry tissue to remove moisture. If your only using alcohol, depends what's on the lens, then you probably won't have to wipe it dry, just shake the tissue about three times or so and wipe from the center out.
Camera lens cleaners don't work for cameras, my wife used to own half of a camera repair company, they just get the dirt mad at you. The green lens cleaner that just about ever one buys is worthless, its a mixture of vinegar and water essentially.
If your cleaning objectives go to Wal-Mart or a good hardware store and buy a cheap, small LED flashlight so you can illuminate the area your cleaning either from the front or back. That helps you visualize the dirt. Use a reversed eyepiece as a magnifier. If you need a longer reach to get to the back of an objective use a whole Kim-Wipe and wrap it around a diamond holders tweezers (a long reach, relatively soft tough tweezers) with a lot of Kim-Wipe hanging of the front.
Be gentle but be firm.
Then there's lubricating, disassembly, etc.
I don't want to stop you or discourage you from writing about microscopes but you might want to consult with your local technical people. I've been in the craft of microscopes since '78, it is not the simplest field in the world. They're is a lot to learn, from cleaning to electronics to physics to mechanical engineering and I don't know it all, I learn every day.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
jmchone@nb.sympatico.ca - 29 Jun 2008 19:21 GMT > Sir; > [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > > Kevin Cunningham Yes, it is always good to learn something new, and I appreciate your advice. My camera lens cleaning solution is alcohol based and I assumed they were all like that. It works well and leaves no residue (and no stink). I was told back when I was a student myself that Kleenex and any wood-based paper will contain silica particles and are not suitable for lens cleaning. Kimwipes are widely used in labs (including mine) but most folks will not have them at home. My eBay guide already says you should first try to blow off loose dust or dirt, never use a dry cloth on a lens, and to work from the center outward, but I could emphasize that better. Students sitting in a teaching lab and probably many users at home have no access to a technician, and when teaching optical mineralogy I had to provide some instruction on safely handling and setting up the instrument, before launching into the methodology of rock and mineral analysis. Persuading the chairman and dean to fund visits each semester from a service technician for cleaning and adjusting was impossible (I tried), so cleaning, adjusting, setups, and lamp replacement etc. generally fall to the faculty member teaching the course. It is certainly not a trivial task and not always self evident either. Only a professional like you can provide true technical advice and service, so I will stick to a few simple basics. Thanks from J. G. McHone
Kevin Cunningham - 30 Jun 2008 16:04 GMT On Jun 29, 2:21 pm, jmch...@nb.sympatico.ca wrote:
> > Sir; > [quoted text clipped - 84 lines] > a professional like you can provide true technical advice and service, > so I will stick to a few simple basics. Thanks from J. G. McHone (sigh) I should have gone on and on about the number of things you have to clean off of microscopes, thats the real reason for using the chemicals I recommended. One type of crud requires one strength and another crud requires another type. There is no general use cleaner because dirt is not general. It's quite specific. I use acetone as well but that can dissolve plastic so you can be in real trouble if you make a mistake.
Leica messen mechanics use alcohol, heptane and water based cleaner only, they feel that it works in various strengths and you can hurt the microscope with too much stuff. Zeiss, by the way, uses ether and benzine, some were there has to be more dangerous chemicals!
Since you are a Geologist you probably don't have to sweat mounting media as much as a pathologist or tech does, that stuff can be a real pain in the rear. And do emphasize the diamond holding tweezers, I use mine for hours every day. They're cheap but kinda hard to get, try a jewelers supply store.
As for taking apart and fixing tools you should recommend both phillips, pratt-reed and posidrive cross point screw drivers. The set you mentioned you had would be a good beginning if it has all of the above. Metric fine point straight bladed screw drives are a must and your right, Wiha makes some good ones. And of course a set of metric Allen heads down to 1.5mm at least. My set goes down to 0.9 and I use it routinely.
And a good DVOM, there are more electrical problems than I care to think about.
Thanks!
Kevin Cunningham SMS
Richard J Kinch - 01 Jul 2008 05:31 GMT > Zeiss, > by the way, uses ether and benzine, some were there has to be more > dangerous chemicals! Ether (petroleum ether) (not to be confused with diethyl ether) and "benzin (e)" (not to be confused with benzene) are just other names for the WalMart product I suggested earlier. Chemists have a very confused history of nomenclature.
Kevin Cunningham - 01 Jul 2008 13:27 GMT > > Zeiss, > > by the way, uses ether and benzine, some were there has to be more [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > product I suggested earlier. Chemists have a very confused history of > nomenclature. And it goes beyond that. Benzene, if used in Germany, can be heptane. The ether I was referring to is anesthesia grade, very pure, very explosive. Oh, fun fact, this ether may generate a precipitate that is explosive!
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
Richard J Kinch - 01 Jul 2008 22:23 GMT > Benzene, if used in Germany, can be heptane. No. Benzene is the aromatic hydrocarbon C6H6, never heptane or other paraffin. Benzene is not benzin or benzine.
There is confusion of terminology, and then there is confusion from not knowing organic chemistry.
Kevin Cunningham - 02 Jul 2008 13:37 GMT > > Benzene, if used in Germany, can be heptane. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > There is confusion of terminology, and then there is confusion from not > knowing organic chemistry. Richard,
Heard this from a buddy who had just been to Germany. What mechanics and messen mechanics call "benzene" is really heptane. First of all they're translating between German and English, secondly this is only one plant. I'm sure that it might be called heptane in other plants. Now my buddy has used heptane since he was 19, he's in his 40's now. He can pick it out. Oh, he was over there with a good friend, another messen mechanic, he says it heptane like one of the local vendors sells, local being in Atlanta. And he's in his late 40's.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
David Littlewood - 02 Jul 2008 18:14 GMT In article <dab2cc34-7dc9-4ca2-972d-ac52a9c35f27@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com>, Kevin Cunningham <smskjc@mindspring.com> writes
>> > Benzene, if used in Germany, can be heptane. >> [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >Kevin Cunningham >SMS Kevin (and others): This confusion arises because the Germans use the word "benzin" for motor gasoline (petrol in the UK) and also for various aliphatic hydrocarbons found in it, such as heptane, C7H16.
They use the word "benzol" for the aromatic hydrocarbon benzene, C6H6.
David
 Signature David Littlewood
Y - 16 Jul 2008 17:59 GMT > > > Benzene, if used in Germany, can be heptane. > > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Kevin Cunningham > SMS Benzene is called benzol in German... No confusion possible there.
Richard J Kinch - 17 Jul 2008 09:50 GMT > Benzene is called benzol in German... No confusion possible there. Right. The confusion is over here, not there.
Richard J Kinch - 30 Jun 2008 05:24 GMT > Heptane is safe but hard to get ... Light naphthenic petroleum distillate is sold by the gallon in a "Coleman Fuel" disguise at WalMart. You can count on about 2X the going gasoline price.
Edward Hennessey - 30 Jun 2008 18:55 GMT >> Heptane is safe but hard to get ... > > Light naphthenic petroleum distillate is sold by the gallon in a > "Coleman Fuel" disguise at WalMart. You can count on about 2X the > going gasoline price. Though corrections on its applicability are welcome, I use naptha by the gallon which is available at any paint store.
On another point, wet sanding is about 30% more effective than dry sanding. And that is what always bothers me about rubbing anything wet, not that Kevin doesn't do it, not that I don't. Sometimes kinetic effort is required to dislodge coatings and aggregations. But the idea of rubbing something "in" against vulnerable components is not one I cherish.
There is a device I have used on other things called a Cavitron which uses localized ultrasonic action to dislodge material. Although it would certainly be slower than wet and swab, has anyone tried it in certain optic cases? Also, what about deionizing as a preliminary step in the cleaning process?
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Kevin Cunningham - 30 Jun 2008 22:11 GMT On Jun 30, 1:55 pm, "Edward Hennessey" <halozzyzxhaloMINUS...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> Heptane is safe but hard to get ... > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Edward Hennessey I've tried Cavitron machines and it just doesn't do very much when you in the field. I've tried various chemicals at various times and found that deionizing just doesn't work. By and large the chemicals discussed work and are safe. High vapor pressure chemicals work in general but can cause all kinds of health problems like toluene. Of course there is always something I haven't tried and there is always the new so any ideas welcomed!
I'm not as worried about the sand paper example, we rarely have silica to worry about. Usually I'm dissolving things like various greases, including human greases. The named chemicals tend to work effectively.
Thanks,
Kevin Cunningham SMS
jmchone@nb.sympatico.ca - 01 Jul 2008 14:27 GMT On Jul 1, 9:27 am, Kevin Cunningham <sms...@mindspring.com> wrote:
> On Jul 1, 12:31 am, Richard J Kinch <ki...@truetex.com> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Kevin Cunningham > SMS OK, I have amended my little eBay guide according to some of your suggestions (emphasizing wet lens cleaning, which I had already advised). This is intended to be a brief introduction for a student and or beginner, perhaps someone sitting in the kitchen or shop with family members around. For them, I am not comfortable recommending the more volatile and toxic chemicals that I use myself and are sometimes necessary. For any serious problems it is better for a neophyte owner to contact the nearest microscope service provider, at least until she/ he gains experience. But when your budget is small and you live on a small island out in the ocean, as in my case, being self-sufficient is important, so a serious user will seek a lot more education than my little guide can provide. Of course, that's why this Google site is so helpful. Thanks, J.G. McHone
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